• Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
  • Climbing...
    Climbing... ... is the activity of using one's hands and feet (or indeed any other part of the body) to ascend a steep object. Climbing might be the oldest form of locomotion of Human Beings since it stems from the arboreal locomotion of our ancestors in the trees. Many of the same principles may be applied to climbing on rock or artificial structures. Nowadays it is done both for recreation (to reach an inaccessible place, or for its own enjoyment), as a sport (see the "competition" section of this site) or as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure. Here we deal with Sport Climbing in which the climber uses quickdraws to clip onto permanent bolts in the rock, and thus clips the rope into each quickdraw as she or he climbs up and with the so called Traditional or Clean climbing in which bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are employed and taken from the rock after the ascent (hence "clean"). You find most of the other sub- categories of climbing in the corresponding section of this site.
Sonntag, 10 Mai 2009 14:47

Sportklettern 2007, der Stand der Dinge

geschrieben von 

“Aber der Yuji, der ist doch schon toootaaal alt” platzt die neunzehnjährige Emma (Name geändert) in die Diskussion darüber, dass Yuji Hirayama, unser aller Kletteridol, keine Chance in Biographie, 8c+ hat. Ganze Passagen in der Route kann Yuji nicht klettern. “Aber bei den Wettbewerben tut er noch ganz gut mit” gibt einer zu bedenken. “Ja, aber in den Wettbewerbsrouten gibts auch keine schweren Züge!” sagt Daniel Jung, der deutsche Meister von 2004. Alle nicken zustimmend und damit ist das Thema schon durch, denn keiner der anfangzwanzigjährigen mit denen ich in Céüze stehe können sich vorstellen, dass auch Yuji mal so frisch, jung und stark gewesen ist wie sie selber gerade. Emma war ein Jahr alt, als Yuji 1989 mit seinem Sieg in Nürnberg den ersten großen internationalen Auftritt hatte.

  

Sportklettern 2007, der Stand der Dinge

Jetzt haben wir 2007 und wer sich national zur Spitze der Sportkletterer zählt hat die Biographie und / oder vergleichbare 8c plusser einfach drauf. Von den deutschen Kletterern zum Beispiel gehören Markus Bock, die Bindhammers sowieso, Julius Westphal, Toni Lamprecht, Andi Fritz, Markus Hoppe und Daniel Jung dazu. In jedem Land ausser Amerika ist man mit ein paar “leichteren” Elfern auf der Tourenliste dabei, was ist nun ist in den USA im Moment anders?

Der neueste Trend aus den USA: 8b+ Boulderer gehen Routenklettern!

Schon immer galt, dass die radikalsten Züge zuerst beim Bouldern erprobt und dann aufs Sportklettern übertragen werden. Diese Tatsache geriet eine Zeit lang wegen der geschlagenen und gebohrten Wettbewerbstrainingsrouten mit homogenen und eher leichten Zügen in Vergessenheit ist aber heute wieder aktueller denn je. Chris Sharmas neue 9a Three degrees of seperation beschreibt er als “total Kung Fu style” mit drei wirklich schweren und abgefahrenen Sprüngen in denen man als nicht wenigstens 8b+ Boulderer überhaupt keine Chancen hat. Das sind ganz schlechte Nachrichten für alle Kletterer die sich frühzeitig auf die Entwicklung ihrer Ausdauer und nicht auf die Fähigkeit, potentiell jeden Kletterzug machen zu können konzentriert haben. Ausdauer ist für den Rotpunkt Kletterer etwas, was er sich beim ausbouldern und probieren holt, wenn man aber einmal seine Maximalkraft und Koordination verloren hat bekommt man sie auch nicht wieder zurück. Den Anspruch, jeden Kletterzug machen zu können hat zum Beispiel ganz klar Dave Graham (siehe das Videointerview mit Dave hier!) seit 2001 das Mass aller Dinge wenn es um schwierigstes Bouldern und Routenklettern geht.

 

Realization

Dave Graham beschreibt Realization zum Beispiel so: “zuerst die 8c+ der Biographie” (in der er und Ethan Pringle, von dem später noch die Rede sein wird quasi spazieren gehen, damit sie möglichst wenig gepumpt sind) “und dann ein 7b+ Boulderproblem” Es ist klar, dass die momentan stärksten Jungs sowas nicht wirklich als Highend empfinden auch wenn die Begehung dann doch wegen ungünstiger Witterung zur Zitterpartie wird. In Céüze steht man 2007 für Versuche in der Biographie oder Realization an. Frischt der kühle Wind auf, hauen David Lama, Dave Graham und Ethan Pringle die Versuche in der Realization rein. Am 30. Juli gelingt Dave dann die vierte Begehung des Meilensteins von 2001. Gedanklich ist Dave natürlich schon einen Schritt weiter, möchte 8b+ Boulder mit 8b+ Boulder zu einer Monsterroute verbinden in der jeder Zug grenzwertig schwierig ist.

Ethan Pringle

Ethan ist der shooting star 2007, hat “Loskot & 2 smoking barrels” auf Mallorca geflasht (übrigens auch erst die fünfte Begehung seit 2001, wenn man die Begehung von Chris abzieht). Er ist groß, athletisch und sprungkräftig. Ethan raucht und trinkt nicht, macht an Ruhetagen gewissenhaft seine Ausgleichsübungen und surft, ist also nicht wasserscheu. Wenn man darüber nachgrübelt wer wohl Chris Sharmas Überroute “Es Pontas” wiederholen könnte, fällt einem fast nur Ethan ein.

 

Leistungsvergleiche

Klettermässig sind die Dave und Ethan mit Chris Sharma auf Augenhöhe, ihm wahrscheinlich oft auch überlegen. Was Chris jedoch so einmalig macht, ist sein Auge für spektakuläre Erstbegehungen und seine Nervenstärke, diese dann wirklich auch zu klettern. Sollen die beiden doch seine Route von 2001 wiederholen, er wird mit seinem 75m Klopper am Mt. Clark in Kalifornien ein neues Kapitel des Sportkletterns aufschlagen. Daß in dieser Route die sehr reale Möglichkeit eines 30m Sturzes besteht ist ein Alleinstellungsmerkmal, dass die Zahl der Wiederholungen begrenzen wird. Wie auch im richtigen Leben sehen die Amerikaner sich als Maß der Dinge. Das prägt den Auftritt und das Selbstverständniss der jungen amerikanischen Kletterer. In keinem anderen Land (mit Ausnahme von Tirol, da aber reglementierter) wird so professionell und offen “competitive” geklettert. Darüber hinaus haben zum Beispiel der 18jährige Jon Cardwell und Ethan eine kleine HDV Kamera dabei um für Mike Calls Seite “momentumvm.com” Material zu schiessen. Zwischen den Versuchen filmen sie oft schnell eine Einstellung. Denn auch das ist Kletter-USA: Nirgendwo sonst gibt es Filmer die für Kletterfilme einen Aufwand treiben wie Josh Lowell der das Tun der jungen Leute attraktiv beleuchtet und in allen Teilen der Welt bekannt macht. Dabei ist alles selbstorganisiert und finanziert, ohne das öffentlich-rechtliche Fernsehen im Rücken.

Von 15 Uhr bis in die Dunkelheit um 22 Uhr haben die Kletterer um sich aufzuwärmen und ihre Versuche zu machen.

Die Stimmung ist gereizt, diesen Sommer ist das Niveau hier im Sector Biographie höher als in jedem WM Finale. Es wird in sich hineingehorcht, der andere Kletterer ausgecheckt und Zugabfolgen visualisiert.

Um die Perspektive mal wieder richtig zu stellen, in Europa gibt es einige der beste Kletterer der Welt.

Wenn es um die allerschwierigsten Boulderprobleme geht ist weiterhin Fred Nicole “the Man.” David Lama kann klettermässig potentiell alles, einschliesslich die Wettbewerbe von streberhaften Ausdauerschraubern befreien und damit zur Bewegungskunst weiter zu entwickeln. Adam Ondra wird wahrscheinlich auch für viele Evolutionssprünge im Klettern sorgen und eine Entsprechung der Vielseitigkeit von Toni Lamprecht gibt es wahrscheinlich nur in Tommi Caldwell in Amerika. Und dann haben wir hier noch etwas, was in den profesionell orientierten USA eher die Ausnahme ist, nämlich Phantome! Dazu muss man zum einen Julius Westphal, ganz offensichtlich einer der talentiertesten Kletterer überhaupt, wie auch Andi “Hausi” Fritz zählen der in den letzten 2 Jahren mehr Routen nördlich von 8b+ geklettert hat als irgendwer sonst mit der Ausnahme von Dani Andrada.'

 

Chipping is soo 20th century!

In dieser Betrachtung des Sportkletterns tue ich der starken spanischen Kletterszene Unrecht. Iker Pou, Josune Bereziartu, Dani Andrada und viele andere mehr gehören ganz eindeutig zu den besten Kletterern überhaupt. Eine Einschätzung der tatsächlichen Leistung wird aber erschwert dadurch, dass die spanischen Kletterer sich gegenüber Routenmanipulationen sehr undifferenziert verhalten. Gerade die beiden 9a Neutouren im Juli 2007 haben doch wieder einmal gezeigt, dass Griffe schlagen der Entwicklung des Kletterns diametral entgegen steht. Sowohl "Aloha" von Julius Westphal als auch Three degrees ... von Chris Sharma sind glücklicherweise, obwohl beide in Frankreich gelegen, nicht von ihren Erschliessern “möglich” gemacht worden. Respekt vor diesen Erschliessern! 

 

Gelesen 14848 mal Letzte Änderung am Samstag, 17 Dezember 2011 09:30