Comparison of top female climbers. 2015 overall world cup winner Akiyo Noguchi, World and European champion Juliane Wurm, Alex Puccio, american youngsters Margo Hayes and Megan Mascarenas, Miho Nonaka, Moni Retschy, Shauna Coxsey and of course the fantastic Anna Stöhr showing their skills in Innsbruck, Toronto and Vail 2015.
Before we'll leave for the first Boulder World Cup of the season in Canada, here is our comparison of top male climbers at the European Bouldering Championships in Innsbruck 2105, starting with qualification round’s problem #3 in group B, that was only solved (in the last seconds) by Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer.
The men’s semis and finals had interesting dynamics insofar as among the top four, Adam Ondra, Stefan Scarperi and Jakob Schubert all topped problems that no other competitor could climb.
The semi-finals had extremely difficult boulder problems. The first one was topped only by Jakob Schubert, the second only by Adam Ondra, Michael Piccolruaz and 2009 world champion Alexey Rubtsov while problem #3 remained unconquered.
Big names such as Gelmanov, Sharafudtinov and Glairon-Mondet failed to make it through to the last round and were replaced by Martin Stráník and Stefan Scarperi along with Rubtsov, Ondra, Hojer and Schubert.
The first problem was topped by Ondra only. Unluckily for him, though, his flash attempt was halted because he had touched the marked off wall to the right during the dyno. He sent it second go.
Jan Hojer produced an impressive flash of the second problem, a dyno to a hold that was out of sight, whilst Jakob Schubert managed to send it in the dying seconds of his round.
The third problem was characterised by vertical symmetry as the holds were identical on both two sides. This resulted in many different types of beta, although the only athlete who actually managed to stick the extremely slick and slopy holds was Stefan Scarperi of Italy.
Jan Hojer climbed climbed the last problem on his second attempt, securing the title. Adam Ondra came in second after climbing the last boulder in four attempts and, since no one else managed to reach its top, Stefan Scarperi held on to bronze. Just one attempts separated him from Jakob Schubert who had looked impressively strong throughout the qualifications and semi-final.
the male podium of the Bouldering World Championships consisted of Jan Hojer, born 1992 near Cologne in Germany, Jernej Kruder, born 1990 in Celje in Slovenia and Adam Ondra, born 1993 in Brno in the Czech Republic.
It should be noted that the World Cup in Haiyang was a very weak one, taking place in a ghost town without any real spectators. As a result (?), route setting was weak too, but these issues are the subject of another analysis in the future, let’s talk about the bouldering instead for now!
Before these two world cups, Jan Hojer and Dmitry Sharafutdinov were just a view points apart, as were Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi.
Jan and Dmitri were looking forward to a friendly death match when Dmitri ran into some personal problems that clearly were not helping his bouldering. For the first time in ages he failed to qualify for the finals.
Especially at the end of the season Shauna and Akiyo climbed clearly better than the other girls through all the rounds.
Haiyang was won by Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer.
better late than never - our account of the European Bouldering Championships 2013. Tomorrow off to China!
Along with the book by the same name, Performance Rock Climbing took the world of sport climbing by storm in 1993. Starring the best climbers of their time, this was the first video dealing with movement science, the psychological aspects and training for climbing.
Now for its 20th anniversary, you can re-watch the full "Performance Rock Climbing" again as well as "boulder!", "Evolution/Revolution 1&2", "Climbing on the limit of human performance" and the climbing technique chapter of the Lizenz zum Klettern DVD!
All in all more than 7 hours of classic climbing films - check it out!
This fifth edition was one to celebrate and BAZ is developing to become more than an boulder event. With a serious food line up, international dj’s, a nice decor, workshops and clinics, BAZ really is a bouldering festival!