Comparison of top female climbers. 2015 overall world cup winner Akiyo Noguchi, World and European champion Juliane Wurm, Alex Puccio, american youngsters Margo Hayes and Megan Mascarenas, Miho Nonaka, Moni Retschy, Shauna Coxsey and of course the fantastic Anna Stöhr showing their skills in Innsbruck, Toronto and Vail 2015.
Before we'll leave for the first Boulder World Cup of the season in Canada, here is our comparison of top male climbers at the European Bouldering Championships in Innsbruck 2105, starting with qualification round’s problem #3 in group B, that was only solved (in the last seconds) by Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer.
The men’s semis and finals had interesting dynamics insofar as among the top four, Adam Ondra, Stefan Scarperi and Jakob Schubert all topped problems that no other competitor could climb.
The semi-finals had extremely difficult boulder problems. The first one was topped only by Jakob Schubert, the second only by Adam Ondra, Michael Piccolruaz and 2009 world champion Alexey Rubtsov while problem #3 remained unconquered.
Big names such as Gelmanov, Sharafudtinov and Glairon-Mondet failed to make it through to the last round and were replaced by Martin Stráník and Stefan Scarperi along with Rubtsov, Ondra, Hojer and Schubert.
The first problem was topped by Ondra only. Unluckily for him, though, his flash attempt was halted because he had touched the marked off wall to the right during the dyno. He sent it second go.
Jan Hojer produced an impressive flash of the second problem, a dyno to a hold that was out of sight, whilst Jakob Schubert managed to send it in the dying seconds of his round.
The third problem was characterised by vertical symmetry as the holds were identical on both two sides. This resulted in many different types of beta, although the only athlete who actually managed to stick the extremely slick and slopy holds was Stefan Scarperi of Italy.
Jan Hojer climbed climbed the last problem on his second attempt, securing the title. Adam Ondra came in second after climbing the last boulder in four attempts and, since no one else managed to reach its top, Stefan Scarperi held on to bronze. Just one attempts separated him from Jakob Schubert who had looked impressively strong throughout the qualifications and semi-final.
In der Nachbarschaft der TV Total Studios, des E-Werks und des Palladiums ist das Stuntwerk ein magischer Ort, an dem jeder seine persönlichen Grenzen gefahrlos erkunden kann. Mit über 2200m² Grund- und 1000m² Wandfläche und über 250 Bouldern in verschiedenen Schwierigkeitsgraden ist das Stuntwerk eine der abwechslungsreichsten und größten Boulderhallen Deutschlands.
"Wir" sind Flo Schiffer aus Rosenheim, Friederike "Fritze" Kops, die unsere Kurseprogramm leitet, Niklas "Held" Wiechmann, Chef des Boulderbereichs und ich. Aber warum überhaupt "Stuntwerk" und wie kommen wir auf dieses Logo?
Hier ein motivierendes Video vom ersten Lehrgang der 2015' Saisonvorbereitung des DAV Kletterkaders (Jugend u. Bouldern) im Stuntwerk Köln. Die Probleme hat Stuntwerk Routenbau Chef Niklas Wiechmann geschraubt. Als Coaches waren federführend: Udo Neumann (Bouldern), sowie Gunter Gäbel, Julia Winter, Johannes Lau, Friederike Kops für die Jugend. Der nächste Lehrgang findet wiederum im Stuntwerk am 17./18. Januar 2015 statt.
the male podium of the Bouldering World Championships consisted of Jan Hojer, born 1992 near Cologne in Germany, Jernej Kruder, born 1990 in Celje in Slovenia and Adam Ondra, born 1993 in Brno in the Czech Republic.
My job as head coach of the German Alpine club's Bouldering team has many faces. It includes to facilitate thinking or learning new behaviour and improve physical skills for personal growth and advancement in the demands of bouldering contests. Another aspect is to transfer as much of my knowledge and experience to my climbers. I’m involved in all the aspects of the sport, including physical and mental development and the application of tactics and strategies during the contests. Competitive bouldering is relatively young so common sense on training program design and injury prevention is not yet established. Climbing is mostly a self-taught activity up to a certain age so that some athletes are not used to being coached. We than have to establish a practise of feedback and critique. The athlete perceives a contest from a first person perspective, feeling a slippery hold or fading strength first hand - whereas I have an outside overview - observing body language, comparing the competitors’ different solutions and keeping the judging in check. To bring these two perceptions to match and to keep the communication running so that we both benefit from our different perspectives is the biggest challenge for any coach.
Often I just ask questions and offer opportunities that will challenge my athletes to find answers from within him- or herself.
The four German Bouldering Team trainings, 2009-2014 videos show some of the methods we tried out and experimented with over the last five years.
It should be noted that the World Cup in Haiyang was a very weak one, taking place in a ghost town without any real spectators. As a result (?), route setting was weak too, but these issues are the subject of another analysis in the future, let’s talk about the bouldering instead for now!
Before these two world cups, Jan Hojer and Dmitry Sharafutdinov were just a view points apart, as were Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi.
Jan and Dmitri were looking forward to a friendly death match when Dmitri ran into some personal problems that clearly were not helping his bouldering. For the first time in ages he failed to qualify for the finals.
Especially at the end of the season Shauna and Akiyo climbed clearly better than the other girls through all the rounds.
Haiyang was won by Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer.