My job as head coach of the German Alpine club's Bouldering team has many faces. It includes to facilitate thinking or learning new behaviour and improve physical skills for personal growth and advancement in the demands of bouldering contests. Another aspect is to transfer as much of my knowledge and experience to my climbers. I’m involved in all the aspects of the sport, including physical and mental development and the application of tactics and strategies during the contests. Competitive bouldering is relatively young so common sense on training program design and injury prevention is not yet established. Climbing is mostly a self-taught activity up to a certain age so that some athletes are not used to being coached. We than have to establish a practise of feedback and critique. The athlete perceives a contest from a first person perspective, feeling a slippery hold or fading strength first hand - whereas I have an outside overview - observing body language, comparing the competitors’ different solutions and keeping the judging in check. To bring these two perceptions to match and to keep the communication running so that we both benefit from our different perspectives is the biggest challenge for any coach.
Often I just ask questions and offer opportunities that will challenge my athletes to find answers from within him- or herself.
The four German Bouldering Team trainings, 2009-2014 videos show some of the methods we tried out and experimented with over the last five years.
Klasse Routenbau von Robert Heinrich, Tobi Reichert und Manu Brunn +++ Großes Teilnehmerfeld +++ Beeindruckender Shorti +++ hier unsere Sicht der Dinge (weitere Clips aus München nach dem Break) +++ Bald mehr +++
The Petrohradské PADání 2010 again was a wonderful event! Taking place in the newly developed "Mlynsky Vrch" area we also the had the weather gods on our side. Some complained that it was too hot, but this didn't keep Adam Ondra from doing the FA of "Stix, sd", 8B+ and three 8Bs as well as several 8As over the weekend! Also starring two times lead world champion Tomáš Mrázek...
above: Adam Ondra, first ascent of "Stix, sd", read on for our reports of the 2006 and 2009 PADanis...