• Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
  • Hardest Climbing Moves
    Hardest Climbing Moves The current state of rating hard bouldering/climbing is like the 100m sprint without any direct comparison, face to face competition and before the invention of even a timer... A couple of strong athletes do their thing in some remote areas, come back and report: "It really felt like 9.6 secs yesterday, the track was fast, I was feeling strong, the wind was making this typical 9.6 sound..." So much for the accuracy of rating climbing moves. If you're only in it for the numbers, do comps and show the world how strong you are! If your only contribution to climbing is repeating and downgrading, that's fine, it's just not what you could do with your obvious talent. Why not explain to the rest of us why you liked the climb or not, what is tricky and what is simple about it...
Samstag, 20 Oktober 2012 09:29

2020 Olympic sports: Meet the Games-makers

The October 2012 edition of SportsPro featured interviews with the chiefs of the seven International Federations campaigning for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic Games. Here is what Marco Scolari has to say.  On the site you can vote for "Which sport should be included in the 2020 Olympic Games?"
Freigegeben in ClimbingtheOlympics
Dienstag, 16 Oktober 2012 20:26

Lead for the Olympic bid

On September 16, in occasion of the Sunday press conference, during the World Championships in Paris, the IFSC unveiled some details of their bid to be included in the 2020 Olympic Games. Marco Scolaris (President of the IFSC) announced that IFSC proposed LEAD for both men and women for the 2020 Olympic Games, confirming the visit of two observers from the IOC during the two-day-finals. "Lead is the historical and traditional climbing discipline. It is the expression of climbing most commonly perceived by the public and a popular event among climbers and non-climbers. Lead events have also the most universal representation and is the discipline that a majority of our national federations indicated as their favorite. Lead brings athletes beyond vertical in a continuous gravity challenge, and TV experts pointed out they need the height challenge. The choice of one discipline only is the result of the existing limit in terms of athletes. However we do not exclude the fact that one day the 3 disciplines will be represented at the Olympic Games!".

Created in 2007, the IFSC has spent its first years to build up a dynamic but solid structure, based on principles of good governance, universality, equal opportunities, transparency ; spectacular events ruled by highest standard of rules ; athletes inclusion in the IF decision-making processes at all levels ; anti-doping policies and athletes health and integrity protection. The potentiality for media interest and sponsor support is constant, exposure is increasing. The trend is upward, like in a climb progression is under control, staying true to the core values of the sport. "The IFSC believes that the inclusion of sport climbing would benefit the Olympic Games by bringing a passionate young audience to the Games. Sport Climbing speaks to young people and gets them involved in a sport they can practice for the rest of their lives. It also speaks to each of us: men and women, boys and girls, kids, elders and paraclimbers... all play in and on the same field. Sport climbing is also unique as it is a vertical sport which uses body and mind to climb. Apparel and tools only exist to protect the climber if gravity wins: human beings are not birds, we can (in life chronological order) crawl, swim, climb, walk, run, jump, but not fly. World up is the IFSC motto...because humans are all natural born climbers. ", said M. Scolaris. The next step in the Olympic bid is now a presentation to the IOC Program Commission in December in Lausanne, The final decision on the possible inclusion of a new sport in the 2020 Olympic Games, following the possible exclusion of a sport currently in the program, will be taken by the IOC in September 2013, during the Session in Buenos Aires.

 

from the IFSC site, submitted by Anne Fuynel on 2012-09-26 - 17:15

Freigegeben in ClimbingtheOlympics
Sonntag, 09 September 2012 13:34

Interview mit Wolfgang Wabel

Wolfgang Wabel ist Präsident des Europäischen Kletterverbandes und hofft, dass Klettern im kommenden Jahr 2013 auserkoren wird, um als Sportart bei den Olympischen Spielen 2020 dabei zu sein. bergleben.de hat den Geschäftsbereichsleiter Bergsport vom Deutschen Alpenverein zu der Thematik Klettern bei Olympia ein paar Fragen gestellt ...
Freigegeben in ClimbingtheOlympics
The World Climbing Federation (IFSC) is preparing for next month's World Championships in Paris, a key evaluation of the merits of their bid for inclusion on the Olympic Games programme in 2020. Read the article on inside the games!
Freigegeben in ClimbingtheOlympics
Dienstag, 19 Juni 2012 18:06

Boulder World Cup 2012 report - Vail

A rather mediocre World Cup Vail, Colorado (USA, by European and Asian Standards, but still the one with the best route setting of the season! Anna and Kilian played once again their gold symphony like in Innsbruck, with Anna already winning the World Cup 2012. Shauna Coxsey (GBR) and Sean McColl (CAN) - silver, Juliane Wurm (GER) and Jan Hojer (GER) - bronze, could not prevail on the Austrian super-couple. The boulder World Cup finals will take place in Munich, on August 25 and 26.
Freigegeben in Competition
Montag, 25 Juli 2011 15:29

Boulder World Championships Arco



above: Anna Stöhr's and Dmitry Sharafutdiniv's way through the (semi-) Finals towards being bouldering world champion 2011. Unlike at the BWCs, the organizers made it difficult to film for anybody who didn't pay for TV rights. We hope you'll enjoy these little clips nevertheless!
The Arco World Championships was a two faced affair, at least concerning the bouldering. On the bright side was solid route setting, stunning performances and the realization how high the standard is meanwhile, especially in countries that usually don't compete in the world cups (for many reasons). On the dark side we an arrogant organization that was unable to cope with the many competitors and clearly not interested in bouldering at all. Lets start with the bright side though! (see pics from Arco from the perspective of the German bouldering team here!)
Freigegeben in Competition
Tonde Katiyo and I will document the route setting of the 2011 Boulder World Cup. Our goal is to raise awareness and ultimately a higher standard of route setting at climbing comps.  For that Tonde has set up a site that allows for all kind of interactivity. Till the site is fully operational you can check out our route setting playlist on YouTube. The Milano BWC was really strenuous for me and I got a little sick after returning home, so I only managed to do some male qualification problems for today. Stay tuned for more tomorrow though and - of course I will be doing those "Boulder World Cup reports" again!
Freigegeben in Competition

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