• DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... ... is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
Samstag, 09 Mai 2009 09:04

psicobloc 101 DVD!

geschrieben von 

"I think deep water soloing is the purest form of climbing: free soloing, onsight, first ascents." - Chris Sharma

Psicobloc IS the purest way of climbing. Psicobloc is fun, not much is needed and it possible in a lot of places Still, there are some weird logistics involved that you won't learn in sport climbing school. If you are not born on seacliffs above an ocean on an island like Mallorca for example, chances are that you miss a detail or two. You really should check out the DVD before going deep water soloing -<a href="http://www.udinishop.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p87_psicobloc-101.html">get psicobloc 101 here!

Eine einmalige Konstellation, die grosse Welt des psicobloc einzufangen, ergab sich für mich im Sommer 2005, als sich eine extrem motivierte und enthusiastische Gruppe auf Mallorca einfand. Die meisten schienen durch die Erzählungen von Toni inpiriert, hierher zu kommen und die reinste Form des Kletterns zu probieren. Mats, Torstein und Hugo aus Norwegen. Nora aus Rumänien. Gregor aus Slowenien und Justin aus Kapstadt und Nate aus Kentucky sind alle noch etwas jungfräulich was den psicobloc anbelangt. Glücklicherweise haben wir Miquel, der seit über 25 Jahren haarsträubende Meereshöhlen auf Mallorca erschliesst.

Miquels Erfahrung ist unersetzlich "ah, heute besser nicht nach Cala soundso, der Wind kommt von Westen, ausserdem ist Vollmond!", genauso wie sein rustikaler Humor. Sobald wir dank Miquel per Schwimmreifen, Jetboot oder hanebüchener Abkletterei die Klippen gefunden haben, wird Toni unser Anführer. Obwohl Toni nicht immer ultra ultra fantastisch klettert, hat keiner die Gesamtheit der Anforderungen so gut drauf wie er. Egal ob Toni ruht oder klettert, jeden morgen wählen wir ihn zu unserem Alphaaffen!
Und falls Toni scheitern sollte, dann ... holen wir Chris! Das heisst, wir wünschten wir könnten Chris holen, denn Chris erscheint meistens einfach und tut wie es ihm beliebt. Meistens mit atemberaubenden Resultaten. Talentmässig ist Chris von einem anderen Stern. Wir sind immer inspiriert wenn Chris klettert, manchmal richtig elektrisiert. Als wenn eine Tür aufgehen würde und aus einem gleissenden Licht spricht eine sonore Stimme. "Aufgepasst, so kann man fei auch klettern! So einfach kann es sein!"
Jetzt werdet ihr sagen "da klettern ja immer nur die Stars und die anderen gucken in die Röhre!" Das ist aber nicht so, denn der Star ist immer der, der im Moment in den grössten, nicht notwendigerweise den höchsten, Schwierigkeiten ist. Unsere Gruppe wittert Schwierigkeiten wie der Hai den planschenden Kletterer und bietet sofort auditive Unterstützung. Mit den Armen schleudernd brüllen wir so laut wir können, immer abwechselnd um keine Pause entstehen zu lassen die dem Kletterer erlauben würde ins Grübeln zu kommen. Alle hier kommen übers bouldern zum psicobloc, keiner fühlt sich von Todesangst in Einsamkeit angesprochen und könnte mit ihr umgehen. In den Höhlen wimmelt es von Dämonen, es tropft und riecht und hallt. Hier alleine unbeschwert in 20 Meter Höhe Doppeldynamos abfeuern, ohne den Klangteppich der Gruppe? Unmöglich! Jeder braucht hier jeden, eben wie in einem Affenrudel.

Die fünf Regeln des psicobloc:

1. Sieh zu wie du aus dem Wasser kommst!

Und zwar mit Plan B und doppeltem Boden. An einer Felsküste besteht nun mal die Küste aus Felsen und die muss man erst mal hochkommen. Alles was du planst muss auch nach einem blöden Bauchplatscher noch klappen. Bedenke, daß Seile sich bei Nässe dehnen und du sie ohne Knoten kaum festhalten kannst. Damian Cook ist in Porto Christo gestorben weil er nicht mehr aus dem Wasser kam, und der hatte nicht zum ersten Mal gepsicobloct.
Daraus ergibt sich

Regel 2: Nie alleine!

Macht eh keinen Spass! Mindestens einer sollte auch immer aus dem Wasser anfeuern, das gibt noch ein extra Sicherheitsgefühl.

3. Erwarte das Unerwartete!

Du bist vielleicht das erste Säugetier an diesem Ort, da können schon mal lustige Sachen passieren. Verglichen mit Bouldern und besonders Sportklettern ist psicobloc viel weniger auscheckbar. Da gibts kein starten am höheren Griff oder gar Ruhen am Haken. Da musst du klettern und dir was einfallen lassen. Wenn ein Griff ausbricht oder das Wasser unter dir nicht mehr tief genug aussieht, dann ist dein Krisenmanagement gefragt. Da dran solltest du Spass haben.

4. Keine Erbsenzählerei, kein Wettbewerb!

Wenn man so komplexe, tiefe Erlebnisse wie beim psicobloc macht, verschwindet die Frage, ob etwas neun oder neun minus ist, völlig. Das Mittelmeer würde man auch nicht besser verstehen wenn man wüsste, wieviel H2Os drin schwimmen. Chris Sharmas PONTAX ist mit Sicherheit einer der schwierigsten Kletterreien überhaupt, sowohl in der psicobloc als auch in der Sportkletter- oder Boulderwelt. Viel einmaliger macht die Route aber die Location in einem riesigen Felsbogen im Meer und die Art wie Chris immer wieder zu diesem Dynamomonster hinklettern muss. Das ist der Traum eines jeden Kletterers, egal in welchem Schwierigkeitsgrad.  
Eine Wettbewerbssituation ist aus oben genannten Gründen ebenfalls unerwünscht.

Und schliesslich die wichtigste, die goldene Regel des psicobloc:

ES GIBT KEINE REGELN!  

Psicobloc ist die reinste Form des Kletterns. Psicobloc macht Spass, man braucht fast nichts an Ausrüstung und man kann an vielen klasse Küsten Klettern. Allerdings, psicobloc hat seine ganz eigene Logistik, die du nicht in der Sportkletterschule lernst. Wenn man nicht auf Seeklippen, oberhalb eines Meeres auf einer Insel wie Mallorca aufgewachsen ist, übersieht man vielleicht einige Details. Deswegen habe ich aus den oben angedeuteten Geschichten einen Film gemacht, psicobloc 101. Auf knapp 70min. zeigt der Film alle Aspekte des psicobloc, von Tonis erstem Mal zu Chris' PONTAX! Richtig wahnsinniges Bouldern, psicobloc eben!

Gelesen 10757 mal Letzte Änderung am Freitag, 25 November 2011 15:29
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