• DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... ... is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
Sonntag, 10 Mai 2009 13:56

Sharma macht Traumtour & 2006 psicobloc update

geschrieben von 

Am 26. September 2006 hat Chris Sharma nach zahllosen Versuchen seine neue, noch unbenannte Line am Es Pontas im Meer vor Santanyi gemacht. Die über 20 Meter hohe Route vergleicht Chris von den Kletter-Schwierigkeiten her vage mit seiner "Realization" (9a+) in Ceüse. Damit gehört sie sicher zu den schwierigsten Routen der Welt, ist allerdings dadurch, dass man beim psicobloc nicht ausbouldern kann, möglicherweise die am schwierigsten zu kletternde Linie überhaupt!

  

Nach etwa zehn Meter steiler und schwieriger Kletterrei kommt ein über zwei Meter weiter Sprung aus zwei Untergriffen an ein großes, flaches Loch. Nach 40 bis 50 Versuchen hatte Chris diesen und den darauf folgenden Ausstieg zur Seeseite hin schon letztes Jahr geknackt. Die wahre King Line jedoch führt die gesamte Unterseite des Bogens entlang, weisst eine weitere, extrem harte Boulderstelle an der Dachkante auf und steigt zur Landseite hin aus.  Josh Lowell von BigUpProductions hat Chris bei der Begehung gefilmt (Bilder von den Dreharbeiten hier) und wir dürfen uns schon auf die 2007 erscheinende DVD "King Lines" freuen.

Nicht nur Chris Sharma macht neue, tolle Routen auf Mallorca,

 

Daniel Jung ist der unbestrittene Shooting Star der frühen psicobloc Saison 2006! Daniel kam Mittwoch nacht alleine in Malle an. Vorbereitung lehnt der optimistsiche ehemalige Plastikheld bekannterweise ab und so verschwand Daniel erstmal von unserem Radar nachdem er eine Besorgniss erregende SMS abgesetzt hatte. Erst Samstag wurde er dann von Toni Lamprecht bei bester Gesundheit und Laune aufgefunden. Er hatte eine gemütliche Wohnhöhle bezogen und die Kletterhöhlen schon ausgiebig beklettert. Unter Tonis fürsorgliche Hege gedieh sein bisher verschüttetes psicobloc Talent in einem schon unverschämten Maße. So konnte er auch Tonis 2005 Route "Mamasita, 8ab" flashen! Apropos Toni, der hat Chris Sharmas "Big Mama, 8b" wiederholt und ausserdem eine neue, härtere Linie in der Tarantino Cave namens "Jackie Brown" erstbegangen.

Ende Juli war auch Daniel dann noch einmal mit seinem jüngerem Bruder Markus dort und schreibt:
"Waren ja nochma auf malle, war richtig gut. Hab das projekt mit dem riss am anfang in portocolom geklettert. Sehr schöne route mit nem netten dach zum schluss. in der tarantino cave hab ich noch nen paar sachen gemacht, Bigmama rein bis zum nohänder ganz oben dann nach liks und kill bill oder from dusk till dawn. (bigmama killed bill und bigmama killed bill from dusk till down) wenn man nicht in den nohander von mamacita klettert sind die neuen verbindungen beide so gut 8a+/b. Die original biogmama hab ich nicht gemacht, war leider einmal ganz oben gefallen war nen griff ausgebrochen, bin voll auf der seite aufgekommen, war nicht so gut... Dann hab ich noch was neues gemacht, den einstieg von mamacita dann nach links und die from dusk till d raus (shoot me down) kann man auch mit dem einstieg von der bigmama klettern (bang bang shoot me down), sind dann 130 züge ist aber finde ich genau so schwer wie die shoot me down weil man ueber den nohänder von mamacita klettert. Kannst ja mal dem toni sagen die shoot me down hat sehr geile züge, schöne schnapper. man kommt nicht an den henkel am anfang von der killbill, ist nach den schnappern sehr ausdauernd..."

Darauf antwortet besagter Toni (Lamprecht):

"Wow, so kreativ waren wir natürlich nicht (hier hatte er einen Smeili eingefügt)! Also hier ist was ich zu berichten habe:
Juni: Im Juni gelang mir nach 3 Tagen die 1. Wiederholung von Chris Sharmas Monsterausdauerroute "Big Mama" (130 Züge oder so in einer 30m langen Route durch die komplette Höhle) in der Tarantino-Cave. Tja plötzlich kein Projekt mehr zu haben war dann irgendwie auch strange. Eine Woche versuchte ich mich an einem alten Projekt zwischen "Mamasita" und "O-Ren Ishii": "Jackie Brown" dürfte jetzt die wahrscheinlich schwerste Route in der Tarantino-Cave sein (und meine letzte Neutour dort). Ansonsten haben wir noch supernette Spanier kennengelernt, sind auf Wellen gesurft (zumindest mit dem Boogie-Board) und der eine oder andere Nachwuchskletterer verblüffte durch spektakuläre Sprünge... .
Sommer: Mehr Leute im Paradies, vor allem mehr strangers: neue Gesichter, aber auch alte Gesichter. Viele Spanier, Österreicher, Basken, Schweizer und natürlich Deutsche (übrigens auch Kölner). Ein anderes Flair als 2005, nicht unbedingt schlechter, aber einfach anders. Die ersten 2 Wochen lies ich mich so dahintreiben. Es enstand die eine oder andere neue Kombie (Strangers in Snatch) und einige Routen sind durch zahlreiche Begehugen zu Megaklassikern geworden: Strangers, Bandito (Linksschleife), Afroman... . Es ist immer noch das Paradies: Leichte Routen spulen, schwimmen, slacklinen, schwere Routen probieren. Hab' mir ein bißchen die Zähne an einem Projekt links von Snatch ausgebissen, die 2. Wiederholung von (Klem Loskots) "If you look into the sun you don't see the shadow" in Porto Christo gemacht. Eine Variante von links her zu "Right here right now" geklettert. Links davon eine Phantastische Neutour mit dem für Porto Christo passenden Namen "Life is too short to spend it on cheap champagne" erstbegangen, mir die Rippe angebrochen, viel gefeiert, gelacht und und und. Neue Projekte für das nächste mal ausgecheckt. Chris Sharma hat (bevor er seinen Bogen bezwang) eine WAHNsinnsroute durch die Leuchtturmhöhle in Porto Christo erstbegangen (30m Ausdauerbrett). Am rechten Höhlenrand haben wir noch ein paar Sachen (wieder?) erstbegangen. Ein geiler Sektor... .
Spreißel rockte nicht nur den Fels. Ebenso Benno - Youngster halt. Und Oldie-Rodler hat mal wieder in alter Manier ("ich war seit 3 Jahren nicht mehr klettern, deshalb flashe ich nur noch 8a") aufgetrumpft. Ich sag nur Reichs-Rodler rechts von Strangers......
Mallorca is still the best!
Grüße,
Toni"

   

Gelesen 12450 mal Letzte Änderung am Freitag, 08 Februar 2013 17:14
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