• DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... ... is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
  • DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc...
    DeepWaterSoloing- psicobloc... … is a form of solo rock climbing, practiced on sea cliffs at high tide, that relies solely upon the presence of water at the base of a climb to protect against injury from the generally high difficulty routes. Although this is viewed as a relatively new style of climbing, it probably originated in the late 1960s or early 1970s in Dorset, Southern England or Majorca. Real development of the style began in 2001 with Klem Loskot's ascent of "Loskot & two smoking barrels", an spectacular double-dyno in Majorca's Porto Christo. It's current highpoint was reached when Chris Sharma after many tries finally climbed "Es Portas" also on Majorca in 2006. This type of climbing is most famously practiced on the coasts of England, in Thailand, Vietnam and on Majorca but is potentially possible on many more sea cliffs as well as above rivers and lakes around the world.
Dienstag, 04 Juni 2013 16:57

an ordinary day for Adam Ondra, 2012

a typical day of Adam Ondra in 2012 in 3 minutes. Campus board, school, training on a local 9b link-up route and travelling... 

Freigegeben in BesserKlettern
A sweet short video featuring Adam Ondra´s "old" ascents of three 9a - 9a+ routes, which were initially filmed for the movie The Wizard´s Apprentice, but did not make it into the final version of the movie. So they are really old now, in many aspects, including the old-school way of filming.
Despite that, two of them are still the hardest routes of Adam´s home climbing area and of the whole Czech Republic. And it would be amazing, if somebody would finally try them... :-)
Freigegeben in Climbing
Samstag, 13 April 2013 08:37

Nalle Hukkataival repeats Bügeleisen

Nalle Hukkataival has repeteated Klem Loskot's "Bügeleisen" at southern Austria's Maltatal. "Just topped out Bügeleisen!!!! YESSSSSS!!! Probably the most epic battle I've ever had with any boulder! Conditions ranged from bad to utter shit and I got sick for several days.. So HAPPY I managed to pull it off at the very last moment!!!!!" This is the video Nalle's ascent in apparently quite humid conditions...
Here is Klem's original 2001 ascent:
Freigegeben in Bouldering
Freitag, 08 Februar 2013 16:22

Scarred for Life - the Ice Knife


Cool short film series about Dave Graham & friends, travelling the world and bouldering hard things! This is the clip portrayes Dave Graham's first ascent of The Ice Knife (V15).
Music:
Active Child - "Hanging On" off the album You Are All I See.
Joker - "The Vision (Feat. Jessie Ware)" off the album Digidesign.
Freigegeben in Bouldering
Dienstag, 22 Januar 2013 18:22

the Art (and Science) of Bouldering...

... is an ebook based on our (German) book "Lizenz zum Bouldern" (see teaser below) we are developing at the moment.

 

 Read the rave reviews for the book here:

"I, you, he, she, it boulders. We, you, they know: Bouldering is great. Generally, you don't need to know more, if anything. You can do it just like that. If you (or others) try to find out what bouldering is all about, some tested catchphrases, nowadays found in almost any outdoor guide book, are usually enough by itself to create an appealing image. And that's a good thing. 

But what if you want to know more, if you want to explore this topic in depth and say something about the phenomenon bouldering that differs from stereotypical views: then you write a book about it, like Udo ”Udini“ Neumann did. Why he named this book ”Lizenz zum Bouldern“, in connection with another book by this author (Lizenz zum Klettern), is understandable. It goes without saying that this book is not about fancy words, but about providing a deeper understanding. Its pinch of scientific content is well dosed. However, ”Lizenz zum Bouldern“, just like another book by Udini, ”Der XI. Grad“, also is not a training guide. What these two works have in common, however, is their evocativeness, conveyed by fun-to-look-at layouts and graphics as well as intelligent and humorous, but in no way know-all texts that make your fingertips sweat.

This page-turner makes you want to know more, to go out there and do it – bouldering. 

Complete novelties are the elaborately arranged video analyses of various bouldering world cups. Sounds boring, but it's extremely interesting to take a closer look at the approach of people that know how to do it. The accompanying analyses are enlightening and may be relied upon: as a coach of the DAV national bouldering team Udo knows, what he is talking about.

 

Overall, a gem with an unmistakable Udini-style that belongs on every bookshelf, not far from the latest issue of CLIMAX."

– Climax (Austria)

more reviews after the jump!

Freigegeben in Art of Bouldering
Donnerstag, 15 März 2012 18:56

Chris Sharma about Letting Go

Chris Sharma talks about the ‘inside game’ of climbing – how our thoughts can either hinder our performance or enhance our experience. The universal idea of letting go and focusing on the present moment allows us to more fully enjoy our passionate pursuits and our lives… of course this is easier said that done.

Freigegeben in BesserKlettern
Donnerstag, 01 Dezember 2011 18:29

Deep Water Soloing world-wide Gallery

{gallery}http://www.flickr.com/photos/udini/sets/72157628029024762/:7:77:51:0:2:mootools_slimbox:Galleria{/gallery}
Freigegeben in Psicobloc

Am 26. September 2006 hat Chris Sharma nach zahllosen Versuchen seine neue, noch unbenannte Line am Es Pontas im Meer vor Santanyi gemacht. Die über 20 Meter hohe Route vergleicht Chris von den Kletter-Schwierigkeiten her vage mit seiner "Realization" (9a+) in Ceüse. Damit gehört sie sicher zu den schwierigsten Routen der Welt, ist allerdings dadurch, dass man beim psicobloc nicht ausbouldern kann, möglicherweise die am schwierigsten zu kletternde Linie überhaupt!

Freigegeben in Psicobloc
Donnerstag, 28 Oktober 2010 13:50

Der XI. Grad - das Kultbuch wird 10!

 

“Wenn sich ein leicht abgedrehter Spitzenkletterer und ein sympathisch kreativer Wirrkopf zusammentun, um ein Buch über das Klettern am Rande der Leistungsgrenze zu erschaffen, dann muß wohl so etwas wie DER XI. GRAD herauskommen. Klem Loskots und Udo Neumanns schräger Einblick in den Mikrokosmos der Minigriffe und -tritte kommt frisch und frech daher, dass es eine Freude ist.” Schrieb im Jahr 2000 die Zeitschrift Klettern. Anlässlich des zehnten Geburtstages verkaufen wir hier die letzten Exemplare des Kultbuchs für nur noch 29,95€!

Freigegeben in Media
Samstag, 04 Juli 2009 13:43

High-end sport climbing in Spain

above: Chris Sharma during the first ascent of Golpe de Estada, 9b at Siurana, Spain

 

When it comes to sport climbing, the energy center of the universe without a doubt is located in Spain! Here you find stories, videos and photos of noteworthy ascents.

Freigegeben in Climbing
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