Dienstag, 22 Januar 2013 18:22

the Art (and Science) of Bouldering...

... is an ebook based on our (German) book "Lizenz zum Bouldern" (see teaser below) we are developing at the moment.


 Read the rave reviews for the book here:

"I, you, he, she, it boulders. We, you, they know: Bouldering is great. Generally, you don't need to know more, if anything. You can do it just like that. If you (or others) try to find out what bouldering is all about, some tested catchphrases, nowadays found in almost any outdoor guide book, are usually enough by itself to create an appealing image. And that's a good thing. 

But what if you want to know more, if you want to explore this topic in depth and say something about the phenomenon bouldering that differs from stereotypical views: then you write a book about it, like Udo ”Udini“ Neumann did. Why he named this book ”Lizenz zum Bouldern“, in connection with another book by this author (Lizenz zum Klettern), is understandable. It goes without saying that this book is not about fancy words, but about providing a deeper understanding. Its pinch of scientific content is well dosed. However, ”Lizenz zum Bouldern“, just like another book by Udini, ”Der XI. Grad“, also is not a training guide. What these two works have in common, however, is their evocativeness, conveyed by fun-to-look-at layouts and graphics as well as intelligent and humorous, but in no way know-all texts that make your fingertips sweat.

This page-turner makes you want to know more, to go out there and do it – bouldering. 

Complete novelties are the elaborately arranged video analyses of various bouldering world cups. Sounds boring, but it's extremely interesting to take a closer look at the approach of people that know how to do it. The accompanying analyses are enlightening and may be relied upon: as a coach of the DAV national bouldering team Udo knows, what he is talking about.


Overall, a gem with an unmistakable Udini-style that belongs on every bookshelf, not far from the latest issue of CLIMAX."

– Climax (Austria)

more reviews after the jump!

Freigegeben in Art of Bouldering
Freitag, 04 Januar 2013 16:43

Bouldern - Natursport für Kreative

Das DAV-Panorama hat meinen Text ziemlich gekürzt, hier ist der Artikel (und hier eine Slideshow), so wie ich ihn ursprünglich geschrieben hatte:

Vorsicht, potentiell kontroverser Inhalt! Der folgende Artikel geht davon aus, dass der Leser kein Problem damit hat, wenn Menschen jedes Alters und Geschlechts durch Wald und Wiesen huschen und Felsbrocken beklettern um nach dem Klettern spur- und geräuschlos wieder in die Zivilisation zu verschwinden. Denn darum geht es in diesem Artikel, ums Felsbrocken beklettern, auf Neudeutsch: Bouldern, und zwar in Deutschland! Ach Deutschland! Wir Deutschen tun uns mit den kleinen Abenteuern schwer...

Markus Bock bouldert im Frankenjura, ca. 1996


Freigegeben in Bouldering
Montag, 08 Februar 2010 14:50

Lizenz zum Bouldern

oben: Lizenz zum Bouldern, making of ...

Lizenz zum Bouldern ist fertig und kann ab sofort im Buchhandel (ISBN: 9783980480956) oder hier erworben werden!

oben: Besprechungen von Lizenz zum Bouldern, auf der nächsten Seite kann du dir einige Seiten anschauen ...
Freigegeben in Media
Samstag, 08 August 2009 16:17

Bronx Rock Invitational 2009

Recipe for a fantastic boulder contest:

Invite 12 very different climbers, all with various backgrounds, 6 girls and 6 boys. Have a cool venue ready, with clean structures that allow for creative route setting that challenge all skills for bouldering. Let them pick straws, one girl and one boy share one section on your structure. Leave it open to them if or if not to coorporate, just ask them to care for each others safety. Let them put up problems, apply as few rules as possible, provide the girls with 2 additional (bad!) holds to compensate for reach etc. Do the ranking / prize thing Melloblocco style, each problem is worth x €, divided through the ascendonistas so nobody returns empty handed. After them setting for one hour, do something for your audience, get into the climber's head, ask them for the idea behind their problem, some might have one, some not, the crowd loves world class climbers talk about climbing!


Than it is bouldering time!

Your job is done, from now on the thing flows by itself! The climbers support each other, the vibe is friendly and the air electric. Some unexpected turns are to be expected, boys get grey hair over "easy" girl problems, girls cheat by solving macho moves with girl technique. More grey hair for the boys! After 90 minutes everybody is wasted beyond believe and you have clear, undisputed winners. (Jule & Jonas in this case) Everybody is happy.

Trust me, we did it three times now. It is called BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL! (read here what happened 2007 and 2008)



Freigegeben in Competition
Dienstag, 30 Juni 2009 13:52

Besser Bouldern! workshop

 Kurzes Video von Udo Neumanns "Besser Bouldern!" workshop, 2009 im Blockwerk / Mainz

Freigegeben in BesserKlettern