Dienstag, 15 September 2015 14:59

Hangeln - climbing with swinging feet

In climbing, it sometimes it is easier to let our feet swinging through the air instead of trying to use them on the wall. This liberates the choice of our body’s position in three dimensional space.
„Campussing" seems to be the established term in english-speaking sport climbing and bouldering communities.
Campussing stems from the Campus board, a two dimensional training device.
Training on the Campus board is intended to build finger, arm and shoulder strength. It consists of bending your arms with hands in a pronated position and a static phase while reaching the next rung with the other hand.

Mind you, this is a training exercise, not the most efficient movement. If we initiate the motion with our center of gravity we can move faster and more efficiently with just our hands.

Other activities share the basic concept of locomotion, but different arrangements and distances between the points of contact and especially the infinite variety of angle, surface and size of the holds is unique to climbing.

Hangeln is the German term for this locomotion. Hangeln is understood by everybody in the german speaking world, regardless of age and background. Hangeln is what monkeys do in the trees. This reflects in the english translation „brachiation“ - a term used in zoology but not in climbing circles.
Hangeln is a truly three dimensional movement involving our whole anatomy. Every part of our body is spiraling in a particular fashion and sequence. The body is a true gestalt entity – the total is more than the sum of its parts.

We’re only just at the beginning of realizing what hangeln can do for our climbing - let’s start by not calling it just „campussing“ anymore, will ya?
Freigegeben in BesserKlettern
Donnerstag, 14 November 2013 10:10

Classic Climbing Films

Announcing our channel for classic climbing movies, starting with Performance Rock Climbing.
Along with the book by the same name, Performance Rock Climbing took the world of sport climbing by storm in 1993. Starring the best climbers of their time, this was the first video dealing with movement science, the psychological aspects and training for climbing.
Now for its 20th anniversary, you can re-watch the full "Performance Rock Climbing" again as well as "boulder!", "Evolution/Revolution 1&2", "Climbing on the limit of human performance" and the climbing technique chapter of the Lizenz zum Klettern DVD! 
All in all more than 7 hours of classic climbing films - check it out!
Freigegeben in Media
Dienstag, 04 Juni 2013 17:39

Johnny Dawes interview

Modern climbing and bouldering with its fluid movements owes a lot to this guy - Johnny Dawes! When he recently turned up in Madrid Talo Martin took the opportunity to interview one of his (and everyone's) heroes!!!  Characteristically funny and interesting Johnny's always worth a listen....and if you haven't read it go buy his book 'Full of Myself' - it's great!
Freigegeben in BesserKlettern
Mittwoch, 30 November 2011 17:50

Climbing Technique (1993)

above an excerpt from Performance Rock Climbing, 1993 by Udo Neumann & Dale Goddard. Starring some of the best climbers of this time like Jibé Tribout and Marc LeMenestrel. Groundbreaking classic from the early days of sport climbing!
Freigegeben in BesserKlettern