Dienstag, 11 August 2015 07:22

top female climbers compared

Comparison of top female climbers. 2015 overall world cup winner Akiyo Noguchi, World and European champion Juliane Wurm, Alex Puccio, american youngsters Margo Hayes and Megan Mascarenas, Miho Nonaka, Moni Retschy, Shauna Coxsey and of course the fantastic Anna Stöhr showing their skills in Innsbruck, Toronto and Vail 2015.

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Hier ein motivierendes Video vom ersten Lehrgang der 2015' Saisonvorbereitung des DAV Kletterkaders (Jugend u. Bouldern) im Stuntwerk Köln. Die Probleme hat Stuntwerk Routenbau Chef Niklas Wiechmann geschraubt. Als Coaches waren federführend: Udo Neumann (Bouldern), sowie Gunter Gäbel, Julia Winter, Johannes Lau, Friederike Kops für die Jugend. Der nächste Lehrgang findet wiederum im Stuntwerk am 17./18. Januar 2015 statt.
Freigegeben in BesserKlettern

From the qualifications on, it became clear that Alex Puccio and Juliane Wurm were in their best shape ever. Alex had skipped the last two events of the Bouldering World Cup 2014 to re-charge her batteries with some of the hardest rock bouldering ever done by a woman.
The third contender for the title was Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi, winner of the 2014 Bouldering World Cup, her third overall title after 2009 and 2010.
With Anna Stöhr injured and other potential shoo-ins like Miho Nonoka and Shauna Coxsey not in peak shape the Bouldering World Championships in Munich became a battle between Akiyo, Alex and Jule. Only Alex and Jule could climb problem #3 in the semis by showing some of the strongest performances in bouldering competition history. Jule won the semis, followed by Akiyo. Both needed two tries for the first problem in the finals, which Alex had flashed. Than, after tremendous struggle, Akiyo couldn’t top problem #2, Alex needed two tries and Jule flashed it. That problem was hard !
After problem #3 didn’t see an ascent, it came down to problem #4 between Alex and Jule. Whoever would do it with fewer tries would become Bouldering World Champion 2014! After Alex needed just 6 attempts, the pressure was on Jule. She kept it together though and secured her first world title! If you want to learn more about Juliane Wurm, please check out our 2011 portrait „Jule dreams of bouldering"  If you want to get an idea about the training of Juliane Wurm and the German Bouldering Team, check out our playlist.
Freigegeben in Competition
Mittwoch, 27 April 2011 18:36

Jule dreams of bouldering

Ein kurzer Film über Jule Wurm in Fontainebleau, den ich letztes Wochenende bei unserem Lehrgang gefilmt habe. Demnächst mache ich vielleicht mal einen Film über meine Experimente mit Pinhole und Plastikobjektiven, aber jetzt geht erstmal die Boulderweltcup Saison richtig los. Drückt uns die Daumen!
Freigegeben in Bouldering
Montag, 17 Mai 2010 14:48

Boulder WC 2010 report #7 - Munich


The Bouldering World Cup 2010 stayed gripping up to the last problem! Munich's '72 Olympic stadium provided a worthy location for the final event. Of all the potential winners, only Chloé Graftiaux dropped the ball and didn't make it to the finals. In the finals Akiyo Noguchi won by the narrowest margin possible - Anna Stöhr needed one more try for the only problem the girls could climb in the finals.

Route setting was very "russian style" as many competitors put it, meaning rather rock like moves on bad holds, what tends to favor either, well, russians or … rock climbers. Since Adam Ondra is the best rock climber in the world right now It was no surprise than that he won the event and with it the overall Boulder World Cup 2010.

As usual you can check out the results here. We rather let the (moving) pictures do the talking, so watch our clip below and stay tuned for our route setting survey video among the top competitors here very soon! For our reports of the 6 previous Boulder World Cups please read on ...


Freigegeben in Competition
Montag, 08 Februar 2010 14:50

Lizenz zum Bouldern

oben: Lizenz zum Bouldern, making of ...

Lizenz zum Bouldern ist fertig und kann ab sofort im Buchhandel (ISBN: 9783980480956) oder hier erworben werden!

oben: Besprechungen von Lizenz zum Bouldern, auf der nächsten Seite kann du dir einige Seiten anschauen ...
Freigegeben in Media
Samstag, 08 August 2009 16:17

Bronx Rock Invitational 2009

Recipe for a fantastic boulder contest:

Invite 12 very different climbers, all with various backgrounds, 6 girls and 6 boys. Have a cool venue ready, with clean structures that allow for creative route setting that challenge all skills for bouldering. Let them pick straws, one girl and one boy share one section on your structure. Leave it open to them if or if not to coorporate, just ask them to care for each others safety. Let them put up problems, apply as few rules as possible, provide the girls with 2 additional (bad!) holds to compensate for reach etc. Do the ranking / prize thing Melloblocco style, each problem is worth x €, divided through the ascendonistas so nobody returns empty handed. After them setting for one hour, do something for your audience, get into the climber's head, ask them for the idea behind their problem, some might have one, some not, the crowd loves world class climbers talk about climbing!


Than it is bouldering time!

Your job is done, from now on the thing flows by itself! The climbers support each other, the vibe is friendly and the air electric. Some unexpected turns are to be expected, boys get grey hair over "easy" girl problems, girls cheat by solving macho moves with girl technique. More grey hair for the boys! After 90 minutes everybody is wasted beyond believe and you have clear, undisputed winners. (Jule & Jonas in this case) Everybody is happy.

Trust me, we did it three times now. It is called BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL! (read here what happened 2007 and 2008)



Freigegeben in Competition

Juliane Wurm und Jonas Baumann trainieren in den Wupperwänden, Frühjahr 2009

Freigegeben in BesserKlettern