The Boulder World Cup in Chongqing, China saw some impressive performances by winners Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Anna Stöhr whose only ascent of the women's problem #4 was the highlight of the event. The German team climbed pretty well with Jule Wurm and Jonas Baumann just missing the finals barely and Moni Retschy climbing into her first BWC finals! Unfortunately Moni was a bit overwhelmed and couldn't show all she's capable of, but hey, that was just the first of 7 more BWCs to come! Next up, Millau, France - stay tuned!
On September 16, in occasion of the Sunday press conference, during the World Championships in Paris, the IFSC unveiled some details of their bid to be included in the 2020 Olympic Games. Marco Scolaris (President of the IFSC) announced that IFSC proposed LEAD for both men and women for the 2020 Olympic Games, confirming the visit of two observers from the IOC during the two-day-finals. "Lead is the historical and traditional climbing discipline. It is the expression of climbing most commonly perceived by the public and a popular event among climbers and non-climbers. Lead events have also the most universal representation and is the discipline that a majority of our national federations indicated as their favorite. Lead brings athletes beyond vertical in a continuous gravity challenge, and TV experts pointed out they need the height challenge. The choice of one discipline only is the result of the existing limit in terms of athletes. However we do not exclude the fact that one day the 3 disciplines will be represented at the Olympic Games!".
Created in 2007, the IFSC has spent its first years to build up a dynamic but solid structure, based on principles of good governance, universality, equal opportunities, transparency ; spectacular events ruled by highest standard of rules ; athletes inclusion in the IF decision-making processes at all levels ; anti-doping policies and athletes health and integrity protection. The potentiality for media interest and sponsor support is constant, exposure is increasing. The trend is upward, like in a climb progression is under control, staying true to the core values of the sport. "The IFSC believes that the inclusion of sport climbing would benefit the Olympic Games by bringing a passionate young audience to the Games. Sport Climbing speaks to young people and gets them involved in a sport they can practice for the rest of their lives. It also speaks to each of us: men and women, boys and girls, kids, elders and paraclimbers... all play in and on the same field. Sport climbing is also unique as it is a vertical sport which uses body and mind to climb. Apparel and tools only exist to protect the climber if gravity wins: human beings are not birds, we can (in life chronological order) crawl, swim, climb, walk, run, jump, but not fly. World up is the IFSC motto...because humans are all natural born climbers. ", said M. Scolaris. The next step in the Olympic bid is now a presentation to the IOC Program Commission in December in Lausanne, The final decision on the possible inclusion of a new sport in the 2020 Olympic Games, following the possible exclusion of a sport currently in the program, will be taken by the IOC in September 2013, during the Session in Buenos Aires.
from the IFSC site, submitted by Anne Fuynel on 2012-09-26 - 17:15
The 4th Boulder World Cup 2012 was held in the market square in beautiful Innsbruck surrounded by snow topped mountains...
above: Anna Stöhr's and Dmitry Sharafutdiniv's way through the (semi-) Finals towards being bouldering world champion 2011. Unlike at the BWCs, the organizers made it difficult to film for anybody who didn't pay for TV rights. We hope you'll enjoy these little clips nevertheless!
The Arco World Championships was a two faced affair, at least concerning the bouldering. On the bright side was solid route setting, stunning performances and the realization how high the standard is meanwhile, especially in countries that usually don't compete in the world cups (for many reasons). On the dark side we an arrogant organization that was unable to cope with the many competitors and clearly not interested in bouldering at all. Lets start with the bright side though! (see pics from Arco from the perspective of the German bouldering team here!)