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Montag, 31 August 2009 14:54

Sensation beim Blocmaster in Innsbruck!

Junger Ötztaler schlägt die komplette Weltelite

Das Mammut Blocmaster Boulder Festival in Innsbruck war wohl das stärkste international besetzte Bouldermasters in diesem Jahr: alles was Rang und Namen im Boulderzirkus hat, traf in der Tiroler Landeshauptstadt ein und so war das Starterfeld gespickt mit Kletterern aus den vorderen Rängen der Weltrangliste bzw. die Plätze eins bis fünf waren geschlossen vertreten.
Sonntag, 30 August 2009 17:38

BAZ! - Bouldering @ the Sea

{2jtab: BAZ! 2009}
The BAZ! team managed to pull off another great event with the fourth incarnation of "Boulderen An Zee" at Scheveningen Beach. Even more climbers, better conditions (at least for bouldering, sun bathers were shivering) and the incredible atmosphere when the sun sets and the finals start... Stay tuned for more soon!
{2jtab: '09 Gallery}
{2jtab: BAZ! 20008}

above: Planet BAZ! Friday, 20:00 CET, 14h to go before the comp starts. (If you are interested in what it takes to pull off such an event, check out the BAZ! blog.)

The BAZ! 2008 has been the best climbing related event I've ever been to! Around 700 climbers from all over the world met to climb on 200 carefully crafted problems, the best youngsters and adults made it into the enthralling finals that took place in front of a magical sunset (these guys are friends with all weathergods too!). Everything was top notch at the BAZ! 2008, with the help of more than 100 volunteers (!!!), they built 3 huge "boulders" and the final stage. They had DJ's, live music,impressive light, good food and some of the best route setting by any standard.

That all this can happen in a country without any rock doesn't come as a surprise, without any significant alpine tradition, the Dutch developed a very modern approach to climbing. They have some of the best climbers in the world, the biggest Fontainebleau site (and the nicest Bleau guide) and now:

above: birds eye view of the BAZ! site, thurday, 28.08.08, -44h till lift off


I could go on and on with how amazing the BAZ! was, for now I want to share some videograbs from the footage we shot.


Ferdinand Schulte (NED) Muriel Sarkany (BEL)
Jonas Baumann (GER)  
Cloé Graftiaux (BEL)
Ludovic Laurence (FRA) Vera Zijlstra (NED)



{2jtab: the BAZ! movie} {udini_list169}BAZ/playlist{/udini_list169}

The BAZ! 2008 has been the best climbing related event I've ever been to and so the documentary about it became almost 35 minutes long. The first part tells you the logistics of such a huge event and gives some impressions of the open contest. The second part is about the finals with lots of split screens to compare climbers and some incredible fisheye close-up footage.


Mittwoch, 26 August 2009 08:07

Qingdao bouldering

Think Climbing in China - think Yangshuo - think again!

Rockclimbing in China has gotten a lot of media exposure over the last months: From blogs and other well known internet resources to magazines and climbing flics everyone seems to have covered the topic. All these reports had one thing in common: The phrase „Climbing in China“ has been used synonymously with sportclimbing on the steep limestone cliffs of Yangshuo, situated in the beautiful southwestern province of Yunnan.
While planning our summer vacation in China due to different reasons it was soon clear, that Piaʼs and my route wouldnʼt go any near the Yunnan province and therefore we wouldnʼt be visiting Yangshuo after all. We didnʼt want to give up on climbing in China though, so we started doing some research on other possible climbing – or even better bouldering – spots.  
After a long time of searching we found a short information about an obscure granite bouldering area right on the ocean at the city of Qingdao in between Shanghai and Beijing. There was no topo yet, but bouldering right on the beach sounded really inviting. We got in contact with some local climbers and planned for a longer stop in Qingdao.
Samstag, 08 August 2009 16:17

Bronx Rock Invitational 2009

Recipe for a fantastic boulder contest:

Invite 12 very different climbers, all with various backgrounds, 6 girls and 6 boys. Have a cool venue ready, with clean structures that allow for creative route setting that challenge all skills for bouldering. Let them pick straws, one girl and one boy share one section on your structure. Leave it open to them if or if not to coorporate, just ask them to care for each others safety. Let them put up problems, apply as few rules as possible, provide the girls with 2 additional (bad!) holds to compensate for reach etc. Do the ranking / prize thing Melloblocco style, each problem is worth x €, divided through the ascendonistas so nobody returns empty handed. After them setting for one hour, do something for your audience, get into the climber's head, ask them for the idea behind their problem, some might have one, some not, the crowd loves world class climbers talk about climbing!


Than it is bouldering time!

Your job is done, from now on the thing flows by itself! The climbers support each other, the vibe is friendly and the air electric. Some unexpected turns are to be expected, boys get grey hair over "easy" girl problems, girls cheat by solving macho moves with girl technique. More grey hair for the boys! After 90 minutes everybody is wasted beyond believe and you have clear, undisputed winners. (Jule & Jonas in this case) Everybody is happy.

Trust me, we did it three times now. It is called BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL! (read here what happened 2007 and 2008)



Montag, 06 Juli 2009 08:14

where it all began

For hours you've fought with this problem. By the time you've figured out the sequence, your power is gone. You rest. Put the shoes back on. Uuuuh, that hurts. Your toes are screaming, the laces cutting through the battered skin of your fingers. A couple more alibi tries before you admit that you are done for today, defeated!
Hiking back you wonder if you ever felt so wasted before. You get lost. This dammed forest! Every muscle fiber is begging for mercy...
But wait, this arête really looks too good! Lets check it out for another day! It is so tempting, you might as well put the shoes on and give it a try ... By the time you've figured out the sequence, all your power is gone ...
It's getting dark, you are stoked, before you fall asleep your body remembers the moves it did today ... There still isn't a place like Fontainebleau in the bouldering world, regardless what the hype says. That arête you've been trying might be only 5c, but believe me, there isn't a climber who never struggled with a font 5c!
Nowadays, bouldering areas are developed by 8a boulderers for their 8a buddies, media hype very welcomed. Most of these areas therefore lack the diversity and spectrum that makes them enjoyable in any physical shape you might be in, with any friends you are with (climbers or not) and in any season.

This is Fontainebleau,

the place where 8a heroes are being lectured by middle aged housewives, inflatable monster pads don't make you dare to top out problems that were established 30 years ago starting on a little carpet and the hardest easy bouldering in the universe!

Fontainebleau, the place

where it all began...




Samstag, 04 Juli 2009 13:43

High-end sport climbing in Spain

above: Chris Sharma during the first ascent of Golpe de Estada, 9b at Siurana, Spain


When it comes to sport climbing, the energy center of the universe without a doubt is located in Spain! Here you find stories, videos and photos of noteworthy ascents.