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Gerade erst entdeckt!
Hydra ist Die klassische 8a Risslinie in Ettringen. Etwas versteckt im Sektor Hölle zieht der schmale Fingerriss leicht überhängend die ansonsten strukturarme Wand hoch. In den frühen neunziger Jahren von Udo Neumann erstbegangen wird die ehemals mit 8a bewertete Tour heute sehr selten so geklettert wie damals. Die meisten Wiederholer weichen im unteren Teil des Risses kurz nach links aus. Somit wird die Tour dann zur 7c.
(Weiss nur noch dass ich es ganz anders gemacht habe bevor man nach rechts geht (mit rechter Außenkante in den Riss, mehr so piazmäßig) Wäre schon interessant mal zu sehen wie sich das jetzt so anfühlt!)
Freigegeben in Climbing
Marco Scolaris posted a new message:
2020 Dream

Dear Friends,
despite the fact that every day we climb higher, stronger and faster, we did not make it.
Wrestling, Baseball/Softball and Squash have been selected for the final round in September.
The result does not need comment, as it comments itself.
We'll dedicate some time in the upcoming EB meeting to analyse the vote and to make some reflections, in order to (re)design the future of our sport.
Keep climbing!


BBC sports writes:

Olympic Games: Three sports still in running for 2020 place

Squash, baseball/softball and wrestling are the final three sports in contention to be added to the Olympic Games programme in 2020.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) will decide on one remaining place in the programme in September.
A space was freed when wrestling was originally dropped in February - though it was then allowed to reapply.
The IOC has dropped wushu, wakeboarding, roller sports, karate and sport climbing from its consideration.
Wrestling has been given another chance after the IOC executive board voted for it following 30-minute presentations by each international federation.
Baseball/softball was dropped after 2008 in Beijing, while squash has never featured at the Olympics.
Whichever sport succeeds in the September vote will be added to the 25 core sports, plus golf and rugby sevens.
To remain relevant to sports fans of all generations, the Olympic programme commission systematically reviews every sport following each Games.
The commission uses 39 criteria in determining a sport's suitability, including youth appeal, universality, popularity, good governance, respect for athletes and respect for the Olympic values.
Golf and rugby sevens are the latest sports to be added to the Olympics and will debut at Rio.

More to follow...

Freigegeben in ClimbingtheOlympics
Sonntag, 17 Februar 2013 17:29

3 klassische Eifel Klettereien, 1990

Leider alles Klettergeschichte, diese Routen sind heute nicht mehr kletterbar! Udo Neumann in "Hühnerbrust", Gregor Jaeger in "Bibos Idee" und Udo Neumann in "Negermemme." (alle Routen übrigens "top" geklettert, auch wenns nicht so aussieht ;-)  - 
gefilmt 1990 auf S-VHS
Freigegeben in Climbing
Donnerstag, 27 Dezember 2012 10:04


Very nice video of Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat in this mythical Rätikon route, with Nina making the first women ascent of one of the hardest multipitch routes in the world.

Freigegeben in Climbing
Samstag, 17 November 2012 10:53

R.I.P. Patrick Edlinger

If you started climbing in the early eighties, there were only a couple heros to choose from and among those outstanding climbers, Patrick Edlinger was not only the most glamerous, he was also the one "who had it all". Some of the most inspiring imagery of that time showed Patrick Edlinger soloing barefoot in the Verdon and Buoux or repeating everything in the western US in unheard-of good style. He single-handingly developed the Verdon and Ceüse (!!!) and, just when everybody thought he was just a poser (some of his film were rather "french" ;-) - he won all the important competitions! Among them was Munich 1989, the pic below shows him on the final route.

Patrick Edlinger winning Munich, 1989

In 2006 he moved to La Palud to be close to his beloved Verdon Gorge where I shot the pic of Patrick and his kid in 2005. He became only 52 and will be always remembered for one of the characters who shaped modern climbing forever!

Patrick Edlinger with his kid, Verdon 2005

Somebody already uploaded my video comparision of Patrick Edlinger and Wolfgang Güllich in Munich 1989 in bad quality (after the break) but I will re-upload it in better quality as well as other footage we have of Patrick...


Freigegeben in Climbing
Freitag, 03 Juli 2009 14:08

Dave Graham interview

David Graham grew up in Portland, Maine, in the northeast of the United States. He started climbing when he was 14 and instantly became addicted. As a talent, Dave turned heads immediately and began influencing the climbing community at a young age. By the age of 16 he was working as a professional rock climber, and planning his world travels. At the age of 18, he began to travel to Europe and Asia, learn to speak other languages, and climb the hardest existing routes in the world. Now 26 years old, Dave has most of the last 8 years been living and climbing mostly throughout Europe. After 10 years of redefining the limits within rock climbing, traveling the world, and speaking foreign tongues, Dave nowadays is more excited than ever to push his own personal limits and share his thoughts. I interviewed Dave in Ceuze for "Die 2te Lizenz zum Klettern DVD", read on for the German translation!

Freigegeben in Climbing

Es gibt dieses tiefsitzende Vorurteil über Köln, dass hier 24 Stunden Halligalli ist, auf jeden Kletterer 10 Kletterhallen kommen, in denen aus köstlichen Brunnen schwerelos machender Gerstensaft und milchschäumender Mokka fliessen zur Freude der schönen Menschen und sinnlichen RTL-Moderatorinnen. Das Klima im Rom des Nordens sei immer perfekt und in den Schulen würden die Kinder im Bäumeklettern unterrichtet. Ja, das ist alles nur zu wahr. Und wenn ihr vor Neid platzt!

Freigegeben in Buildering