Mittwoch, 19 Dezember 2012 18:02

HardMoves Routenbau


Routenbau für die Qualifikation HardMoves 2013 in den Wupperwänden / Wuppertal
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Sonntag, 09 September 2012 14:00

Route Setting at the Boulder World Cup 2010...

... what the competitors think:
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Montag, 17 Mai 2010 14:48

Boulder WC 2010 report #7 - Munich


The Bouldering World Cup 2010 stayed gripping up to the last problem! Munich's '72 Olympic stadium provided a worthy location for the final event. Of all the potential winners, only Chloé Graftiaux dropped the ball and didn't make it to the finals. In the finals Akiyo Noguchi won by the narrowest margin possible - Anna Stöhr needed one more try for the only problem the girls could climb in the finals.

Route setting was very "russian style" as many competitors put it, meaning rather rock like moves on bad holds, what tends to favor either, well, russians or … rock climbers. Since Adam Ondra is the best rock climber in the world right now It was no surprise than that he won the event and with it the overall Boulder World Cup 2010.

As usual you can check out the results here. We rather let the (moving) pictures do the talking, so watch our clip below and stay tuned for our route setting survey video among the top competitors here very soon! For our reports of the 6 previous Boulder World Cups please read on ...


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Mittwoch, 24 Februar 2010 19:15

Unstable Bouldering

Gestern haben wir im Rahmen des DAV- Stützpunkttrainings mal mit dem Lapis Rollybar und den Rollyballs herumgespielt. Sehr interessant! Dies ist nur ein kleiner Ausschnitt unserer Maßnahmen um uns auf die Boulderweltcupsaison 2010 vorzubereiten (siehe unten). Da ich unser Training oft mit 2 (oder mehr) kleinen Videokameras aufzeichne, kann man evtl. im Herbst einen Film über das Training auf Weltcupniveau schneiden ...

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Montag, 08 Februar 2010 14:50

Lizenz zum Bouldern

oben: Lizenz zum Bouldern, making of ...

Lizenz zum Bouldern ist fertig und kann ab sofort im Buchhandel (ISBN: 9783980480956) oder hier erworben werden!

oben: Besprechungen von Lizenz zum Bouldern, auf der nächsten Seite kann du dir einige Seiten anschauen ...
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Donnerstag, 07 Januar 2010 15:13

Hard Moves Boulder League

Fantastisches Finale der HardMoves 2010 in den Wupperwänden!
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Samstag, 08 August 2009 16:17

Bronx Rock Invitational 2009

Recipe for a fantastic boulder contest:

Invite 12 very different climbers, all with various backgrounds, 6 girls and 6 boys. Have a cool venue ready, with clean structures that allow for creative route setting that challenge all skills for bouldering. Let them pick straws, one girl and one boy share one section on your structure. Leave it open to them if or if not to coorporate, just ask them to care for each others safety. Let them put up problems, apply as few rules as possible, provide the girls with 2 additional (bad!) holds to compensate for reach etc. Do the ranking / prize thing Melloblocco style, each problem is worth x €, divided through the ascendonistas so nobody returns empty handed. After them setting for one hour, do something for your audience, get into the climber's head, ask them for the idea behind their problem, some might have one, some not, the crowd loves world class climbers talk about climbing!


Than it is bouldering time!

Your job is done, from now on the thing flows by itself! The climbers support each other, the vibe is friendly and the air electric. Some unexpected turns are to be expected, boys get grey hair over "easy" girl problems, girls cheat by solving macho moves with girl technique. More grey hair for the boys! After 90 minutes everybody is wasted beyond believe and you have clear, undisputed winners. (Jule & Jonas in this case) Everybody is happy.

Trust me, we did it three times now. It is called BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL! (read here what happened 2007 and 2008)



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Montag, 06 Juli 2009 08:14

where it all began

For hours you've fought with this problem. By the time you've figured out the sequence, your power is gone. You rest. Put the shoes back on. Uuuuh, that hurts. Your toes are screaming, the laces cutting through the battered skin of your fingers. A couple more alibi tries before you admit that you are done for today, defeated!
Hiking back you wonder if you ever felt so wasted before. You get lost. This dammed forest! Every muscle fiber is begging for mercy...
But wait, this arête really looks too good! Lets check it out for another day! It is so tempting, you might as well put the shoes on and give it a try ... By the time you've figured out the sequence, all your power is gone ...
It's getting dark, you are stoked, before you fall asleep your body remembers the moves it did today ... There still isn't a place like Fontainebleau in the bouldering world, regardless what the hype says. That arête you've been trying might be only 5c, but believe me, there isn't a climber who never struggled with a font 5c!
Nowadays, bouldering areas are developed by 8a boulderers for their 8a buddies, media hype very welcomed. Most of these areas therefore lack the diversity and spectrum that makes them enjoyable in any physical shape you might be in, with any friends you are with (climbers or not) and in any season.

This is Fontainebleau,

the place where 8a heroes are being lectured by middle aged housewives, inflatable monster pads don't make you dare to top out problems that were established 30 years ago starting on a little carpet and the hardest easy bouldering in the universe!

Fontainebleau, the place

where it all began...




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Juliane Wurm und Jonas Baumann trainieren in den Wupperwänden, Frühjahr 2009

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Sonntag, 28 Juni 2009 17:39

Boulder WC showdown at Eindhoven!

The Boulder World Cup 2009 was gripping to the last problem, at least for the boys. Until Rustam Gelmanov couldn't do problem # 3, the outcome was totally open. All the three candidates, Kilian Fischhuber, Gabi Moroni and Rustam had shown flawless performances in the qualiification and semifinals and are truly incredible boulderers but at the end it was Kilian who showed that he is the most complete of them all! 

When defending champion Anna Stöhr failed to qualify for the finals, it was clear that Akiyo Noguchi would be the new queen of bouldering. Akiyo barely made it into the finals, but then, with the tail wind of here overall win, showed an incredible performance!

The main ingrdient for any climbing comp is the route setting and I can not praise the quality of the international route setting team around Reini Fichtinger highly enough! Each problem was different and in the end everybody agreed with the outcome. Well done!

Jonas Baumann, who won the Boulder WC in Vail unfortunately didn't have a good day and didn't pass qualification. His fifth place overall is still a great success.

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